Crème Brasserie

All the world's a stage, and we are merely players...but at least we're eating at the perennially chic and always-fabulous-for-people watching Yorkville stage. Off towards Avenue road is the courtyard where Creme Brasserie counts more for food and drink than the eye candy passing by. Classically elegant interior looks more European than Europe, which can't be a bad thing at all. Just as long as the service is as good and the food keeps up. And it does.

Guest is New Yorker expat, Lesley Mitchell-Clarke of LMC media; this was a former haunt when it was known as Michelle's Brasserie and Lesley is anxious to see if the re-done resto is on par.

For appetizers, the menu is classic, as is the decor. Saumon Fume, creme fraiche, pumpernickel loaf, capers and lemon ($19) is simply elegant and almost a meal in itself. Poulpe Grille, aka grilled octopus, balsamic reduction, arugula, pine nuts with a Myer lemon vinaigrette ($12) is summery, refreshing and tender. Our charming server suggests Megalomaniac "Pink Slip" rose and tells the story behind the wine, which is perfect for the octopus and bridges into the next course. (Ok, it was supposed to be a pinot noir but became a pinot noir rose instead!).

Lesley is a stickler for al dente pasta; her Pates Alimentaires a la Bolognaise, a spaghettini with hand minced steak, white wine, tomato and veal jus ($19) is perfectly done to requested specifications. Only a French restaurant would do it like this, the meaty intensity from the steak and the jus for this pasta.

My classic French salad, La Nicoise, ($19) is fresh, as beautiful to the eye as it is to the palate. I've had a Nicoise many different ways, but never with a tuna salad on the salad presentation.

It brings to mind a "play within a play", which makes me think of Hamlet and that famous scene of a play within a play. Isn't the Yorkville scene just that? All the world's a stage and we're merely players. Players on the dining stage that is...

Price: Dinner for 2 with wine: $75-$100
Atmosphere: Dripping with elegance
Wheelchair Access: Yes
Surprise, Surprise: Large appetizers are almost a meal!

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